Guajira-January 2008

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ROAD TRIP REPORT-Guajira-January 2008

Well last week at the spur of the moment I decided to head out with the family and finally have a look at Guajira. I have been wanting to do this trip for some time now. So it was a good a time as any.
Anyway we headed north out of B/managa at 6:00 am on Jan. 22 to miss the pico y place that's starts at 6:30. We took route 45A towards Rio Negro which is about 1 hour outside of B/manga. At La Raya the 45A finishes and it turns into route 45. There we continued heading north towards Aguachica. After passing alongside Aguachica we continued on route 45 now towards Valledupar. My idea was to travel via Valedupar rather than go through Santa Marta. When we arrived in Caserio San Roque where the cut of to Valledupar is, we discovered that route 49 is a gravel road all the way to Valledupar. I didn't feel like driving 3 hours on a dirty gravel/sand road so we opted to go via Bosconia then on to Valledupar. This route maybe a bit longer but the road are actually newly paved and pretty nice. So we continued on route 45 to Bosconia. At Bosconia we made a right hand turn on route 80 towards Valledupar. In Valledupar I was able to find a gas station which I could use my credit card as our cash was low to begin with. We got a little lost going through Valledupar but finally found route 88 which actually heads south and then east then finally in a northerly direction again. We headed towards Villanueva with the destination of Maicao. Now when we got to Cuestecita we got lost again (dam those non existent road signs). I did happen to pick up a road sign that said Riohacha which was our destination for the day. Well we followed the Riohacha sign but I don't recommend this road to any one. This road is a secondary road and horrible pot holes and no services what so ever.I recommend going through to Maicao then turn left towards Riohacha on route 90. Route 90 is a nice paved highway with tolls and all the regular services. Anyway we got into Riohacha about 6:30 pm. Yes sir, folks it was a good 12 hour drive considering I got lost once for a few minutes in Valledupar and then taking the long slow way to Riohacha from route 88 we did pretty good about 750 kilometers if I remember correctly.
We started looking for a hotel right away and not much to choose from which also had a secure car park. We finally found one on the beach on the north side of the city Hotel Gimaura. It was the last Hotel on the beach strip and it wasn't cheap , 150,000 per night. There was cheaper hotels in the center around 70,000 but with no parking. Anyway the Hotel was ok it had a swimming pool and the beach out front. We had dinner in the hotel restaurant cause we were all tired and then we crashed.


the Beach in front of Hotel Gimaura looking south


Hotel Gimaura


the Beach in front of Hotel Gimaura looking north


the Beach in front of Hotel Gimaura looking south






The next morning we took in the swimming pool and a dip in the ocean. But I wanted to see more of Guajra so we decided to go further north. We checked out the map and decided to go towards Manaure. We topped off the tank with cheap Venezuelan gas (3,400 a gallon) and jumped onto route 90 going east. To get to Manaure you have to go through Uribia if you want to stay on paved roads. I am sure there are many other routes but are not paved or maintained. So we drove east on route 90 to find the cut off to go north to Uribia. About 1 1/2 hours out of Riohacha you will come up to a bridge. Here you will find a traffic cop and vendors sell the usually crap they sell to travelers. This bridge allows the coal trains to carry their loads of coal from the mine up north to then coal port. We hung a left toward Uribia. This road is straight and flat but has the occasional hole or two. When you reach Uribia the road continues straight through but the pavement stops. If you continue straight through you will follow a gravel/sand road along the train tracks to the coal port. Here we needed to hang another left towards Manaure. Again this road is ok but has many more pot holes than the road to Uribia. We finally made it into Manaure around 1:30.


the main beach in Manaure


the main beach in Manaure looking north you can see the salt pile in the distance


the main beach in Manaure looking south







Manaure is a very small town and the major industry is gathering salt from the sea. Its a big operation that's goes on quite a bit down the coast. The hotels in Manaure are almost non existent. We ask at the police station to be told there are only 2 hotels. We found the first one and it had a car park and that was enough for me. The price a little high (70,000) considering the lights and the water could not be on at the same time. When we had power the water didn't work and when we had water the lights didn't work. How the two are connected I will never know. We went to eat at a restaurant on the main Manaure beach recommended by the Hotel lady to be the best restaurant in town. We pulled up and I ordered a "piscado" and my wife ordered a fish soap. Long story short the place was fall of horse flies that would take chucks of food off your plate. Which was welcome cause the food was horrible. My fish was full of sand and my wife's soap was 50 % corn flour or something with a few pieces of fish. After lunch we headed up the beach going north looking for a beach to park and swim. We drove around and past the huge salt pile and found some very nice secluded beaches. The beaches were very nice and clean. You could drive right up to the sand and campout. We stayed there the rest of the afternoon and enjoyed the water and the sun.



the road along the secluded beaches just north of Manaure


the secluded beach just north of Manaure looking south


the secluded beach just north of Manaure looking north


secluded beach just north of Manaure







Well for supper we weren't going to chance the restaurants again so we headed to the market. There we found fruit, canned tuna, crackers, cheese, olives, chips, drinks and returned to eat in the hotel room. We finished dinner just as the lights began to flicker. So we all took a shower with an emergency travel flashlight. Off to bed we went we wanted to get out of here early the next morning.
The next morning we packed up the car and decided to travel back towards Riohacha. So back towards Uribia and catch the 90 west to Riohacha. Just before Riohacha I saw a newly paved road heading north towards the coast. So at the spur of the moment I decided to follow this road. Well it seams they are building a new highway (paved ) from the 90 near Riohacha to Manaure so you don't have to go through Uribia. So we followed this road up to the Indian village of Mayapo. At the village we hang a left towards the beach. Here we found some very nice beaches. We would have gone in for a swim but as we were driving up to the beach my daughter and I saw a big ass snake cross the road in front of us. Lets say it was like pulling teeth to get the 2 out of the car to look at the beach. At least I got some pictures. I found the beaches very nice and again secluded.The sand -very clean along with the water of course. OK back towards Mayapo then catch the 90 west.


the beach near Mayapo looking south


the beach near Mayapo looking north


fishing boats near Mayapo







We drove in through Riohacha and again filled up with the cheap Venezuelan gas. After filling up we head back on the 90 and looked for the highway cops "polica de carretters". I have found when your looking for information about the local area they are usually pretty good and helpful. So we found our polica and he told us about Playa at Camarones which he said has a very nice beach with restaurants. So we are now traveling in a south/west direction actually towards Santa Marta. We found our cut off for Camarones and headed back north. Camarones is a small town about 3 kilometers inland from the beach. We headed for the beach as we were all starving. We found out restaurant very easily as the waiters came out to greet and help park the car. We had lunch and took some pictures. The polica was right this beach was just beautiful. Unlike the beaches further north with very little vegetation except cactus and bushes. Here the beaches had nice sand with beautiful palm trees. I really loved this beach. I think it has become my favorite beach in Colombia so far. So back to the 90 to continue south/west towards Santa Marta.


The beach at Camarones looking north


The beach at Camarones another looking north


The beach at Camarones looking south


The beach at Camarones another looking south


The beach at Camarones restaurant


The beach at Camarones restaurant where we ate lunch


The beach at Camarones fishermen mending nets







On the way to Santa Marta I thought we could stop in to see the beach at Dibulla. Maybe even spend time at the water park there. On the road into Dibulla we saw the water park. It looked nice for a water park in Colombia. But the dam thing was closed. I couldn't believe a water park in the middle of January when people are still on vacation would be closed. Anyway we continued onto the beach at Dibulla to have a look see. Well the beach was pretty rough with some sandy areas and then rocky areas. It had some nice palm trees but I think Camarones was way better. OK lets hit the road again back to the 90 west and onwards to Santa Marta.


The beach at Dibulla looking south


The beach at Dibulla looking north


The beach at Dibulla another looking south


A picture of the coast on the way to Santa Marta








On the way to Santa Marta I thought it would be a good idea to stop in Taganga to have a look at what all the talk is about. Well we drove along the coastal highway and through Parque Tayrona and finally into Santa Marta. Asked for direction to Taganga which we got and followed. Turn left on car 11 and keep on going. The road that lead into Taganga was very narrow and I thought very dangers as two buses couldn't almost pass each other. Anyway up we go climb over the mountain and then back down the mountain on the other side. Again the road is very narrow as you coast down into the village. Its a picturesque fishing village and it has 3 very nice diving shops as you come into the village. Right away we saw signs for Casa de Philipe so we followed them to check out any availability. But as I had figured he was booked solid. We tried a couple more places but also found them to be occupied. We didn't try the hotel down by the beach cause we were told they were quite expensive. I didn't like Taganga at all. It just a small fishing village and from the road as we drove in the beach didn't look all that hot anyway. I could image that the diving might be very good as the 3 shops should have good diving tours. We headed out of there and headed over to the Rodadero.
We arrived in the Rodadero and were greeted by teenagers on bikes.These kids help you look for hotel rooms. We told the guy we wanted to spend about 50- 70 per night. Right away he told us to follow him and he brought us to a Hotel for 60,000 per night (Hotel Valladolid). Dam it had lights and running water. We were happy. We went for dinner and then crashed.

Next morning we thought we would spend the day at Parque Tayrona. We have been there before and we know it well. We went to our favorite Neguanje Beach. We can drive right up to the beach campout and enjoy. We use the first entrance to the park coming from Santa Marta not the main one that's gets you to Cañaveral. You pull off the high 90 and the road is in sad shape, but slowly may your way to the entrance and pay your fee. The fee this year was 6,000 for the car and 6,000 a head for adults and school children 4,000 babies free. The next 15 or so kilometers are worst, the road is in very sad shape. If you can muster 20 ks per hour your doing good. In about 45 minutes you will arrive at Neguanje Beach then find a spot, park and set up. Swimming is fine and the water is nice but a little sandy due to the waves. For snorkeling the beach in front is not very good. But if you head off to the right hand side of the beach where the boats take you to Playa Cristal there is some very good snorkeling. Start at the dock and swim to your right around the big ass rock and follow the coral. We will see parrot fish, trumpet fish, some big ass brain coral, clown fish, blow fish quite a lot of sea life to be seen. If you want more of the same take a boat over to Playa Cristal and on the left side of the beach you will find a lot of snorkeling. This day at Neguanje Beach it was windy as crap. It was so windy our tent kept blowing over. The park closes at 5:00 so around 4:30 you want to start heading out as it take a good half an hour to drive back to the gate entrance. At the gate I was so pissed at the condition of the road inside the park I wanted to speak to the manger in charge. But as usual in Colombia the boss is no where to be seen. I had to settle on leaving an nice long letter for him in the suggestion box. I will give it a couple more weeks and follow it up with some emails. In the five years we have been going there they haven't repair one square meter of road. Here's a tid bit of information about the park that I didn't know and is important. The park only allows 300 people to enter this gate per day. So, if you come late you wouldn't be getting in unless someone leaves. I don't know how much they enforce this rule but if you have traveled to get in you don't want to be turned back cause you arrived later.


A picture of Neguanje Beach from the road as we drive down


Neguanje Beach not sure of direction


Neguanje Beach parking area


Neguanje Beach


Neguanje Beach


Neguanje Beach you can see the big ass rock you can snorkel around


Neguanje Beach


Neguanje Beach parking area nice shade for the car


Neguanje Beach petrified tree in the beach


on the way out from Neguanje Beach I think its called seven wave Beach







Well back to the hotel dinner and sleep. The sun and snorkeling really takes your energy. The next morning the baby developed sniffles and the wife decided we better head home. We were all home sick for a hot shower and a nice comfortable bed. So, filled her up with gas and jumped the 90 south. Just before Cienaga take route 45 back to B/managa. The road from Santa Marta to Bucaramanga is in very good shape comparing it to 4 years ago. You have to go through many small villages which all have monster speed bumps. The trip back was uneventful and took about 8 hours.
That's my road trip report. Sorry if it was boring hopefully the pictures give my writing some life.